Traveling coast-to-coast across the United States by train is one of the world’s greatest travel experiences. Amazingly, it’s also one of the world’s greatest travel bargains — the 3, 400-mile trip can cost as little as $186.
The American railroads are reminiscent of a bygone era. These were the trains that tamed the Wild West, fueled the Gold Rush, and served as the backbone of the Industrial Revolution. At its peak, it was the most luxurious mode of transportation that money could buy. Alas, the golden age of American railroads came to an end. Automobiles arrived and the airplane industry took off. Soon, many railroad companies had to cut losses and ceased their passenger services.
Today, the USA still has an excellent rail network for visitors that’ll take you to almost all the towns and cities a visitor would want to see. Arguably, the most scenic and historic of all the train routes in America is the cross-country journey from San Francisco to New York. As you climb through the snow-capped Sierra Nevadas, and further east through the heart of the Rockies, you may find it hard to disagree.
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The 3, 400-mile coast-to-coast train ride takes 4 days if you do it without stopovers. Of course, you should make stopovers, but you’ll need to buy separate tickets for each leg.
I arrived at the station and found my train — the famous California Zephyr, a direct train traveling 2, 438 miles from San Francisco to Chicago over 3 days.
As we passed Donner Lake, he retold the story of the Donner Party who were stranded here in the winter of 1846. Some of the party of 87 resorted to cannibalism; only 48 survived.
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Another few hours later, the landscape turned into a vast, barren desert. If you fall asleep and wake up, it’s almost like you were transported to a different planet.
With a gleaming casino in the distance, it became clear — we have crossed into Nevada. The train calls at Reno, the Biggest Little City in the World.
In the evening, we were treated to a view so sublime, you begin to wonder if people who fly across the country and never take the train are quite possibly insane.
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As the sun set, it was time for dinner.There’s some luck of the draw involved with dining on an Amtrak train. There are usually insufficient seats for dinner, so passengers are seated with random strangers at the tables.
You never know who your dinner companion would be. It’s awkward for the first time, but many frequent train passenger actually find it to be one of the joys of train travel — meeting people from all walks of life.
An hour later, at a small Nevada town, there was a scene of confusion as the train pulled into the station with police cars standing by. The police boarded the train and arrested my dinner companion on suspicion of possessing firearms.
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During the night, the train crossed from Nevada into Utah. Entering a new time zone, the clocks are adjusted an hour forward.At 3 am in the morning, the train pulls into my first stop, Salt Lake City.
It’s long been a tradition for rafters to salute the passing train, giving this area the highly appropriate nickname of “Moon River”.
There were also dozens of Amish folks traveling on the train. They tend to avoid technology and not use cars or airplanes. Occasionally, they resort to taking the train.
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Soon, it was my favorite time of the day: lunch.Once again, it was a game of “social roulette”. I was assigned to sit with two elder ladies, who may or may not have heads.

The train passed the Byers Canyon Rifle Range, and I found myself hoping that the guns were not pointed in the wrong direction.
The train pulls into Denver, the Mile High City. Despite its location on a vast flatland, Denver still stands at 5, 280 feet above sea level.
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Today’s journey would bring me through 4 states — Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. I slept through most of the journey as the train traveled through the night.
Sleeping on the train is surprisingly comfortable.The seats are spacious with plenty of legroom and they recline a good 40 degrees. They’re more comfortable than economy class seats on planes; perhaps something more like business class on a crappy domestic airline.
The California Zephyr gets you as far as Chicago. To complete the journey to New York, you’d need to transfer to the Lake Shore Limited.
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Amtrak actually offers a writers’ residency program where they provide free train rides just for you to sit and write.The train travels through Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania, before entering New York state.
As soon as you see the Hudson River, you feel a sense of exhilaration that airline passengers will never know. We’ve almost crossed America by train!

Well, that concludes it — an epic 3, 397-mile journey across America. It took me through 11 states and 4 time zones to cross the entire North America continent from coast to coast. In just four days, I’ve seen both the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean without taking a flight. Some people have told me that I’ve already seen more of the country than most Americans.
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Traveling by train gives you a glimpse into the soul of America. The experience rewards you with far more stories and experiences and sights than you could ever witness alone in a car, eyes fixed on the road, or on a five-hour flight across the country.
If you want to see tourist America, rent a Cadillac, get on Route 66 and stop off at a few cutesy diners and motels. If you want to see the real America in all its spectacular, crazy, kooky glory, get on the train.
The rail pass includes 8 train rides which I used to explore other cities after my cross-country journey. If you’re thinking of stopping at a few cities, a rail pass can be a great value. Note that a 3-day journey counts as one ride, but so does a 30-minute one! If you work out the math, each ride is $54 on the rail pass. In comparison, most long-distance journeys cost upwards of $80.
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For some people, buying the direct California Zephyr and Lake Shore Limited tickets should suffice in getting you from San Francisco to New York. Tickets for the entire journey are available from just $186.Over the fall of 2017 we went on a two month long USA road trip. We covered over 10, 000 miles and went through three oil changes in our car. As travelers, we get asked all the time if we like traveling in our own country and YES! We definitely do.
A whole series of unforeseen events happened over our summer. As fall approached and the end of our working season we were not in the position to make any plans or book any plane tickets. As with many things in life, when certain things are not going as we might have hoped or anticipated, there is still an opportunity there.
For us that opportunity was to take a big USA road trip! Before falling in love with Vermont as our seasonal home, we have lived and worked in Arizona, Utah, Colorado and traveled around to a bunch of different states out west. So we were so excited to get back out there.

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The red line gives a good overview of the route we went. Notice the loop-de-lopp near San Francisco. Life went all crazy there for a little while.
Total Days on Road: 50 (Yes, I know that is not quite 2 months. I did round up for simplicity in the post title.)
There she is! I know this car might not be flashy & cool or some super rigged up ‘traveler car/van/truck vehicle’ but our car was incredibly practical and reliable.
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(Insider tip: A HUGE reason we are able to afford to do some of the things we do is because we will almost always choose practical over flashy. We had saved the $4000 USD that our car cost us. We paid in full. We did not pay any interest on a car loan. We also paid in advance for full year’s worth of insurance. We have no monthly car payments and no monthly insurance payments. Practicality may not always be super flashy, but practicality for us also means we have no monthly payments on anything other than our phone plan.)
Hot Tip: Savvy traveling is not always about paying the cheapest price but rather getting the best value. In a few of the places we were all the tent camping was closed. The only sites on offer were RV sites and sometimes those cost $55! Ummm…for $10-15-ish dollars more we could go to hotel, have electricity/heat all night long and usually have included breakfast in the morning. In those instances it was much better value to go to a hotel and as you will see below, overall, our lodging costs still balanced out to be quite reasonable.
…but first…if any of you are familiar with Nomadic Matt’s book, How to Travel the World on $50 a Day, Chris and I often are able to travel for about $50
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